Friday, December 16, 2011

Gorilla Barbeque, Pacifica: Good 'cue, great sauce

Great 'cue is rarely found in a place with atmosphere, and Gorilla Barbeque in Pacifica has none. The food is dished out from an old railcar parked by the side of the road and is to-go only, with a few picnic tables a short hike up a hill overlooking the highway.

Yet even if the fog and wind send you running for your car, the smoky, moist chicken; fatty pulled pork; tender, meaty brisket; and fall-apart ribs - all served with an excellent sweet-sour-spicy barbecue sauce - trump the setting.

Gorilla offers the classic barbecue meal ($11.25): your choice of the usual meats (50 cents extra for ribs and brisket); cornbread, rice, beans and two sides of your choosing. A crisp and light cole slaw, tangy potato salad, rich mac and cheese, and fresh corn are good options, but so are some of the more unexpected choices: lightly grilled, deliciously smoky eggplant or sauteed portobello mushrooms in a mildly spicy sauce.

Posted by Steve Sinai

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